As usual when I write up a blog, I am not trying to give anyone novel advice. Especially when writing about a place that so many folks visit each year – 4.3 million per year to be exact. This trip to Zion National Park was originally a solo birthday trip for myself. My dad, aunt, and uncle had different plans and it turned into a really fun weekend with them! We stayed about 45 minutes from the Zion National Park gate in North Saint George to save a little money and it ended up working out perfectly. We did three different hikes while exploring Zion: Angels Landing, Emerald Pools, and The Narrows.
Angels Landing
Probably the most iconic hike at Zion National Park, Angels Landing was one for the books. We woke up bright and early on our first day to get to the trailhead by 8:00 AM to complete the 5.4 mile hike. In total the hike took us about 4.5 hours with about 45 minutes spent at Angels Landing. For good reason the trail to Angles Landing is rated hard by the NPS. Even excluding the last half mile of chains to Angels Landing, the hike to Scouts Lookout is hard enough. There are plenty of switchbacks. A big plus: the trail has been paved for almost the entire way to Scouts Lookout. This was the most anticipated hike of the trip for my Aunt and Uncle. They sent me probably 20 videos before the trip of other hikers doing the Angels Landing hike. They got pretty pumped to come!
Once you reach Scouts Lookout there are two choices: to take the longer hike to the West Lookout or to take the shorter (slightly scarier) hike to Angels Landing. My dad and uncle were not quite prepared for what they signed up for getting to Angels Landing. When we got to Scouts Lookout and I told them where we were going they looked at me like “what the heck did you get me into”.
My uncle opted out of the last half mile to Angels Landing, instead doing a portion of the West Rim before heading down to meet us back at the Grotto. The chain section of the hike is not for the faint of heart. The shear drop-offs on either side are nerve-racking even for someone with no fear of heights. But the view of Zion Canyon are worth every second of the hike. As a side note: the chipmunks at Angels Landing are brave little assholes, but also extremely cute.
The best advice I can give anyone planning to tackle Angels Landing is to start early. We started around 8AM and it was the best decision. On the way out to Angels Landing we did not have to combat 2 way traffic on the chains. The chains were PACKED when we headed back down to Scouts Lookout around 11:00 AM. We all agreed if it had been that crowded when we started we probably would not have done the last half mile.
EDIT: Since writing this article Angles Landing has changed to a permit required hike! You must apply for the lottery permit via the Zion National Park website YEAR ROUND. You can still hike to Scouts Lookout without a permit, but to complete the chains section to Angles Landing you must have a permit.
Emerald Pools
After finishing Angels Landing and eating lunch at the Grotto my Dad and I headed out to see Emerald Pools. This was a moderate hike with three stopping points: Lower Emerald Pools, Middle Emerald Pools, and Upper Emerald Pools. The geography and environment of the area makes water interesting in the desert of Zion National Park. The emerald pools are spring fed from the cliff-face, with water basically leaking out of the cliff above Upper Emerald Pools. The pools all feed into the Virgin River, which runs through Zion Canyon and is central to the national park. It creates the green oasis that is Zion National Park.
Because of the time of year the lower pools were not full, but there were two small waterfalls flowing into lower emerald pools from middle emerald pools. Overall a cool midday hike before heading back to North Saint George.
The Narrows
Our second day of hiking featured the famous Narrows. It was another early start for us, getting to the trailhead around 8:30AM. After about a mile on the paved riverside trail we finished putting on our waders and headed into the water of the Virgin River. Along the hike you pop in and out of the water frequently, and there are plenty of chances for photos. The Narrows was my aunts favorite hike, as she reminded us of frequently along the way.
Eventually you get to the split in the river. We stopped here for a quick lunch and headed up the Wall Street side of the river. We hiked until we hit an area that would’ve flooded our waders and turned back. At this point it had warmed up enough that I ditched the waders in favor of my shorts. No one else was a brave. You can make what you want out of this hike – shortening it or making it longer depending on how you are feeling. We hiked about 4 miles up the river before turning around.
Initially we were not going to rent waders, but decided to spend the extra money. Once we had started the hike we were very happy with that decision. Starting in the morning was a cold start to the day. It is totally possible to do this hike without waders, however you can start earlier and go longer with them. Another big plus is renting the thick wooden walking sticks. Hiking poles are not nearly as sturdy to support you in the swiftly moving water. Even with the walking sticks everyone in the group took a tumble at some point due to an unexpected boulder in the water.
Before you go
Be prepared to leave your car at the park entrance if you plan to go during peak season. The only area open for personal vehicle traffic is the east section of Zion National Park. Most of the “famous” hiking trails are located in Zion Canyon, on the west side of the park and require you to take either a NPS shuttle or one of the approved commercial shuttles. You can also rent a bike in Springdale and bike into the national park. These requirements are primarily for traffic control. As usual, COVID made things more difficult. The free passes for the NPS shuttle were difficult to come by. So because we had a larger group and everyone had traveled so far to come, we opted to pay for a commercial shuttle.
Another consideration is housing. Springdale is expensive with limited hotel options in the small town. Additionally, camping inside Zion fills up 6 months in advance during peak season. If I return on my own or with friends I will stay at Wildflower Resort – a glamping campground about 15 minutes from the Zion National Park Gate.
Enjoying all of Winter and my adventures? Check out more hiking and trips we have taken on our archives page! More hikes from across Utah are also featured here!
Great Article Emily…I hope this was a memorable Birthday for you.
It was a great birthday weekend!
[…] when I was I hiked The Subway in March 2022. Zion National Park is so much more that Zion Canyon, Angles Landing and The Narrows. I had heard of and seen photos of The Subway online and knew it required a permit. We got […]
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